In December 2003, me and J. went for a short holliday to the northern capital of Portugal, Oporto. I hadn't been there in 15 years (I was 19 then and didn't have a car, so went by train). It doesnt have Lisbon's amazing light, the buildings are all darker, the roads narrower, and the people are different. Maybe not as cosmopolitan, but nicer in their own way. I found it quite a romatic town.